Category: Budgeting & Expense Management

  • Saving Money on Household Appliances

    Saving Money on Household Appliances

    Say you need a new refrigerator, rice cooker, toilet, or air conditioner. This could be because the old one broke, because you are moving into a new house, or just because it’s time for an upgrade. There are various ways to save money without sacrificing much, and we will go into them here.

    1. Buy Used or “unused” – This is something many Japanese people don’t like to do, but you can turn their reluctance into your treasure. Used products are referred to as “Chuko” in Japanese. If you don’t want to buy something used, ask yourself if there is an actual logical reason, or it’s just a “feeling”. I know someone who tried snowboarding once, decided he likes it, and them immediately went out and bought a ton of snowboarding gear. I suggested he at least buy his first set used, but he scoffed, saying he wanted that new snowboard smell. “Sekaku dakara!” was a phrase he used, which means something like “since we’ve come this far…” or “If you’re going to do it, you may as well do it right”, but in this context, it’s really just an excuse. Predictably, he got bored of it, and the stuff sits unused at his house after just a few uses. When he does sell it, he would be very lucky to get half price – and then someone like myself can pick it up very cheap. Used stuff can be bought from individuals on places like Yahoo Auctions and Merucari, but also from stores that will clean, test, and warrant the items. If you need something small buy expensive like a camera, laptop or phone, this may be a very good option. Larger appliances such as washing machines and refrigerators are usually not a good deal, as when you buy new, you can typically have the old item disposed of quickly and cheaply. When you buy used, then you normally have to deal with the old item yourself – which can be expensive and time consuming. There are even “Mishiyo” (unused) items, which are new, but re-sold. This often happens if someone gets something as a gift but doesn’t want it. They sell it to a shop, who will then resell it to you.
    2. Buy “kata-ochi shouhin” – aka last year’s model. Almost all items have a new version released by the manufacturer each year. The new version often costs the same as the old one, and so stores lower the price of the old one to make sure they sell out. Sometimes they will put it on deep discount just to get it out of the store. It’s simpler to manage fewer products, after all. Let’s say you are looking to buy a rice cooker – is the 2025 model that much different than the 2024 model? Probably not. It might have a new color, or an extra feature that you will never use – but it will be 99% the same. What won’t be the same, however, is the cost. Last year’s model will often be discounted 30% or more. The longer it sticks around, the more discounted it will be. It’s still new, and still carries a warranty.
    3. Buy “teijihin”, or Display Models. Often stores have display models that they change out whenever a new product arrives. When the 2026 lineup of refrigerators is released, the 2025 one becomes old and they will sell those display models. Typically these might be moved to an outlet for sale, f.e. the Bic Camera Outlet store in Ikebukuro. Again, many Japanese people don’t like the idea of buying something that a lot of people have touched, but again this is more feeling than anything concrete. There is nothing wrong with a display model refrigerator or washing machine that a bit of alcohol spray can’t fix.
    4. Shop around. Stores that offer points, such as Bic and Yodobashi, often don’t have the best prices. The items that they offer fewer points on are the ones they are making less profit on, which means they are typically a better deal. Accepting various payment methods such as credit cards also means they need to pay fees to the payment processors. You can buy from a store that only accepts bank transfers, and they will almost always have the exact same product for less. You can search for almost anything at kakaku.com or Hikaku.com, or other similar sites.
    5. Consider installation & disposal cost. Larger items such as refrigerators can be difficult to dispose of, and some items such as air conditioners need special installation by a professional. Disposing of an item on your own can sometimes mean waiting for weeks, whereas if they pick up the old item as part of the service when you buy a new one, it will likely be very fast and fairly cheap by comparison. A used refrigerator might be cheaper than a new one, but when you factor in the time and money needed for disposal, buying from a place like Yodobashi is probably the way to go for larger appliances if you are replacing a broken unit. Likewise if you got an air conditioner dirt cheap but it simply arrives in a box, then you need to search for someone to install it for you. If you saved 10,000 on the AC unit compared to a major retailer, but the installer charges you 20,000 to install it, then you’ve gained nothing and lost time.
    6. Ask about government rebated and discounts. Local governments often will pay you to upgrade to a more energy efficient appliance. You can typically file by yourself after the fact, but stores like Bic and Yodobashi will actually do it for you and give you the discount on the spot if you provide photos of the old appliance.

    Personal Experience

    This last year has been an unlucky year in that a lot of things have started breaking, and also I bought an investment property that I had to renovate. Hence I have bought a lot of appliances.

    • A friend had a lemon of a bike that kept breaking. Everything she fixed something, a different part would break. I told her that her dedication to that bike was admirable, but perhaps it was time to buy a new one. When we went to the store to look at new bikes, we mentioned to the sales person that we would be willing to look at last year’s model if it was cheaper, and he happily led the way. He was happy to get rid of it, and my friend was happy to save the money. (about 20% savings).
    • The refrigerator I currently use was a display model from Bic Outlet (About 30% savings).
    • In renovating the new property, I specified the maker and features I wanted for the air conditioner, toilets, windows, etc. I told them “It should be 2022 model or newer”, and the contractor sought out 2024 models that were available at a discount. This saved at least 20% – multiply that by 5 air conditioners 2 sinks, and 2 washlets.
    • Also as part of the renovation, I needed to replace the old refrigerator. I asked Yodobashi staff, and they told me that I could get a 20,000 rebate from Tokyo for upgrading, so I saved about 33% on the new 60,000 JPY refrigerator. In addition to that, I saved a lot of money and time on the disposal of the old refrigerator, because Yodobashi picked it up the very next day for 5,000 JPY, whereas it would have cost a lot more and taken weeks with the “normal” process.
    • Finally, I needed to replace all of the lights as part of the renovation project. Again there was a rebate of 4,000 yen each, for all of the incandescent and florescent lights I replaced. A helpful staff member at Bic Camera told me about this once I mentioned I was replacing old lights.
    • For all of the appliances like microwaves, rice cookers, etc., I found last year’s models on sale and looked on kakaku and other sites to find the best deals.

    Here’s the thing. Everything I bought was brand new, and all of it was Japanese brands, under warranty. I didn’t have to buy suspicious stuff from brands I’ve never heard of on Ali Express or Wish, I didn’t need to really lower my standards at all. Nobody renting my house is going to complain “Hey, this is a 2024 model air conditioner!”, or “I think this refrigerator might have been a display model!” Nobody, including me, will notice the difference, and yet I saved hundreds of thousands of yen (Thousands of dollars) in outfitting a small house.

  • Understanding Tax Deductions in Japan

    Understanding Tax Deductions in Japan

    There are three main categories that get deducted from the paycheck of the average worker in Japan:

    1. [National] Income tax (所得税)
    2. Local [Income] Tax(住民税)
    3. Social Insurance (Including Health insurance and other types of insurance)(社会保険)

    We’ll call the sum of these three categories “Tax” in a broad sense, since they all get paid to the government in one way or another.

    If you have a family where only one person works, they can claim other people sigh as a spouse or children as dependents. This can both lower and raise the overall tax burden. Basically speaking, claiming a person as a dependent will lower tax burden of the primary earner, while raising the fees for social insurance.

    Basically, National Income tax ranges from 5% to 45%, depending on your level of income and deductions. Many people make the mistake of thinking that national income tax is charged against their salary, but it is actually charged against their taxable income (課税所得), which can be reduced through various means.

    Local taxes are normally fixed at 10% of taxable income, but this can vary slightly in some locations.

    Simply Speaking: Taxable Income = Gross Income (Salary) – Deductions.

    This means if you want to lower your taxes, you need to lower your taxable income.

    Of course you could lower your taxable income (and taxes) by lower your salary, but the amount of money you keep would also be lower!

    The other option is to reduce your taxable income by increasing the amount of deductions. If you do it this way, you get to keep more of your income for yourself.

    Deductions

    1. The most basic Deduction is the “basic deduction” (基礎控除) – in principle, this available to everyone. At present, this is 48 man yen – but the rule is scheduled to change to 58 man yen in December of 2025. The amount will likely change.
    2. If you earn a salary at a company, then you also get the “Salaryman Deduction” (給与所得控除) – Which is meant to cover minor expenses of working at a company such as buying suits, shoes, etc., rather than itemizing them as you might do if you ran your own business. This deduction is 65 man yen.
    3. Souse Deduction (配偶者控除) – If you have a spouse that has a very low pay (less than 45 man yen per year) or doesn’t work at all, then this deduction can be applied.
    4. Special Spouse Deduction (配偶者特別控除)- For those with spouses who earn less than 133 man/year.
    5. Family Deduction (扶養控除)- For those with dependent parents or children who earn less than 48 man yen. (The exact amount of this deduction depends on the situation of the family member. More information cab be found here).
    6. Disability Deduction (障害者控除) – If the earner or a dependent family member is a disabled person, then this deduction can be applied.
    7. Survivor Deduction(寡婦控除)- Currently applicable for surviving wives in situations where the husband has died. This is usually 27 man yen, but there is a also a special deduction of 35 man in some cases. You can find more details here. This looks set to be changed in the near future for gender equality.
    8. Single Parent Deduction (ひとり親控除)- This deduction is for single parents. Both males and females can make us of this deduction)
    9. Working Student Deduction (働労学生控除) – For working students with low income.
    10. Social Insurance Deduction (社会保険料控除)- Basically for people who are paying for company sponsored health insurance.
    11. Small Company Pension Deduction (小規模企業共済等掛金控除)- This is for those with an iDeco account. Unlike other deductions, this one can only be used by the earner themselves.
    12. Life Insurance Premium Deduction (生命保険料控除)- This has a maximum of 4 man yen per contract for a combined maximum total of 12 man yen / year. It’s important to note that this doesn’t mean your taxes could be reduced by up to 12 man yen per year, as they can be reduced by at most 12 man x your tax rate. More information can be found here.
    13. Earthquake Insurance (地震保険料控除)- As the name states, but most earthquake insurance isn’t easy to pay out, so this may not be a very good deal. More info here.
    14. Donation Deduction (寄附金控除)- For people who have donated. See here for hometown tax, and here for other donations.
    15. Medical Fee Deduction (医療費控除) – For those who have paid a substantial amount of medical fees during the year. more details can be found here.
    16. Disaster Deduction (雑損控除)- For those who have experienced a natural disaster or other major loss. More information can be found here.
    17. Housing Loan Deduction (住宅ローン控除)- This can be used to claim the interest on housing loans, etc. – but given that if you choose a home with poor resale value your loss will be major compared to the small amount of this deduction it deserves careful thought. (Especially any new homes will almost certainly be sold at a loss eventually).

    Basically all of these deductions are designed to lower the tax burden for people who have tough situations or have already paid a lot elsewhere.

    There are two main ways that taxes can be filed for most people.

    1. Year End Adjustment (年末調整) – This is where the company files your taxes for you at the end of the year based on the information they have.
    2. Tax Return (確定申告)- This is when you fill out a tax return and send it to the tax agency on your own.

    For most people working at a company as an employee, it isn’t necessary to file a tax return.

    Situations where you need to file a return include:

    1. When you have multiple sources of income.
    2. When you have income over 2000 man yen per year
    3. When you want to claim deductions that aren’t within the scope of the year end adjustment.

    So what kind of things do you need to claim yourself?

    1. Hometown tax – This is handled as a donation. (Though you can use the one stop site instead of filing taxes if you are donating to 3 or fewer locations).
    2. Medical Expense Deductions – You can claim medical expenses you had to pay over 10 man yen in the year. You can apply for expenses incurred up to 5 years ago. This always requires filing a tax return.
    3. Spouse & Family Deductions – This can be applied when there is a dependent spouse, elderly parents, or young children, etc. Note that the key word here is dependent. If the person is working and earning a significant amount, then it may be better not to claim them as a dependent. The intent of this deduction is to allow for at least a minimal level of income per person. Note that this deduction is also scheduled for a major revision in December of 2025. Even though this is something you must apply for, you can do it via your company instead of filing a tax return.

    While many of these deductions only apply in special cases, some apply to nearly everyone. In addition to that, almost everyone can use the hometown tax system. You can also use the 401k at your company if they have one, or iDeco if they don’t have one. The more you increase deductions, the lower your taxable income, and therefore taxes will be – This will leave more money in your paycheck, or at least your retirement account.

    Who benefits from Spouse & Family Deductions?

    First, the people who will lose out if they use these deductions are those who don’t use the deductions to their fullest, those who those who stay registered as dependents when they shouldn’t, and those who earn too much money for it to be worth while.

    People will win out are those who will use the deductions they can, those who will make money even if they are not dependents, and those who will pass a minimum level of income.

    Obviously, you should use any deductions that are available to you. If you are the breadwinner and you have a dependent family member who lives with you and earns a low income, then you should claim them as a dependent. This normally means you need to fill out a form so that the HR department at your company knows the situation and will adjust payroll accordingly. If for some reason you don’t want to share this information with your company, then you will need to file a tax return with this information.

    It’s important to remember that the purpose of spouse & family deductions is to maintain an absolute minimum standard of living, not to enrich people who don’t work. Therefore, it does not make sense to try to limit your income to keep your status as a dependent. If you earn too much to be counted as a dependent, then you are earning enough to file for taxes on your own and receive your own deductions. The idea of “If my wife earns more than 103 man per year then I won’t be able to keep the spouse deduction” isn’t wrong, but the conclusion that this is a bad thing is just not right. The husband will pay more taxes in this case, but the wife will pay less taxes. Even though there is a grey area where the total net income will be less from working more hours, this grey area is constantly changing, well past 103 man, and anyway will quickly be passed through by most people (more details below).

    Therefore, the correct way of thinking is for everyone in the family to earn as much as possible – but also use whatever deductions make sense given your current situation. If a family member you could claim as a dependent starts earning more, then even if they are removed as a dependent, and both taxes and social insurance increase – the total net income of the family will generally increase – and isn’t that a good thing?

    One other thing that bears mentioning is that the tax rate only applies to the amount above each level. For example, the highest tax rate is 45%, but not only does that 45% not apply to the person’s gross income – it also doesn’t even apply to their entire taxable income. The 45% only applies to the income after 4000 man yen. This means there is no sense in fearing earning enough to put yourself into the next tax bracket. Entering the next tax bracket only means income above that amount will be taxed at a higher rate. You will still always end up with more in your pocket if you earn more, even if the tax rate and the tax paid increases.

    While the above is 100% true for a primary earner, there is indeed a grey zone for spouses where the total net income can actually go down from working more. This is basically the area between 130 man to 150 man per year for most spouses. This “wall” will move each year as minor changes to the law take place, so rather than trying to manage your income to stay below a certain limit, it makes more sense to earn as much as you can, and then apply whatever deductions you can. In short, if you can earn 130 man, you can probably earn 150 man and be out of the valley anyway.

    If your only goal in life is to avoid paying taxes, then you will severely limit your chances of income for your and your family.

    The last thing to mention is that adding someone as your dependent for taxes will lower your tax bill and save you money, but adding them as your dependent for health insurance will raise your insurance premiums and cost your money. Because of this, you may want to go to HR and ask them about the total combined effects of any changes you are considering before adding or removing a dependent.

  • Are people in Japanese Rich? Poor?

    Are people in Japanese Rich? Poor?

    This question comes up in online forums fairly often in different forms. One of the more common forms is something like “Is 250,000 JPY per month salary enough to live in Japan?”.

    The answer isn’t so simple.

    One way people might try to answer this naively is to simply use an exchange rate converter. There are two main problems with this:

    1. The cost of living in Japan may be very different than other countries, so a simple number won’t help you understand if an amount is high or low just by comparing it to another number.
    2. The taxes and social insurance schemes in Japan are also potentially very different than that of other countries you might be used to.

    The first thing to do is to try to figure out how much would actually remain from your potential paycheck. You can use the site below to get an estimate:

    250,000 per month is fairly low, so not much taxes or social insurance will be taken, and the estimated take-home pay is 194,740 JPY per month.

    According to Study in Japan, the average monthly cost is 130,000 JPY in Tokyo.

    That means you would have almost 65,000 left right?

    Well, but this is an average budget for students. Housing is listed as 41,000 – but assuming you don’t want to live at a dorm, you could easily pay twice that for a one bedroom apartment. In fact, you could pay 4 times that much if you want a swanky apartment right next to a major station.

    This budget also assumes 32,000 JPY per month for food. That is 100% doable if you are eating rice and drinking water, but I personally spend over twice that much.

    It might be more useful to see how much things cost in relation to other countries. Numbeo is one site that is good for that.

    You can see from the numbers on this site that Tokyo is 44% less expensive than NYC, and in particular the rent is 74% less expensive – this is despite Tokyo being a much larger city. What this really means you could live as comfortably in Tokyo as you could in New York on half of the New York salary.

    Then there are the non-monetary differences:

    • Tokyo generally has nicer and cheaper public transportation than NYC
    • Tokyo’s trains and subways do not run 24/7
    • Tokyo generally is safer and has less crime than NYC
    • There are many cultural differences
    • Tokyo has many more colleges and universities than NYC
    • Gas and Electricity is more expensive in Japan
    • Internet is better and cheaper in Japan
    • Tokyo has a many more inhabitants, but has a lower population density since it is larger and more spread out
    • Tokyo is in general much quieter than other major cities. For example, honking is only for emergencies, blaring music is not tolerated, etc.
    • Rent and property prices are much cheaper in Tokyo
    • Tokyo is hot and humid much of the year compared to NYC
    • There is much less poverty and homelessness in Japan in general, including Tokyo
    • There is much less drug use in Japan
    • Interest rates are lower in Japan
    • etc.

    Most of the above is also true when comparing against other major world cities in developed countries such as Hong Kong, London, Paris, etc.

    On the other hand, Tokyo is of course expensive compared with cities in the developing world such as Delhi, Bankok, Manilla, etc. – although salaries are lower in those cities.

    One official statistic I could find listed the average salary in Tokyo as 369,304 JPY per month in Tokyo. Assuming no dependents, this would leave roughly 286,719 JPY per month to spend. Assuming you spent 100,000 JPY on Food and sundries and 120,000 JPY on rent and utilities (including cell phone), it would leave you with over 66,000 for savings, going out, etc.

    This is a reasonably comfortable existence in a city that is safe and convenient, but by no means “rich” in comparison with the average quality of life in other first world countries.

    On the other hand, 10,000,000 JPY is usually what is considered to be “six figures” in Japan. This used to be more than $100k USD, but at current exchange rates it is considerably less when converted to USD – but this doesn’t matter so much if you are spending the money in Japan. If you make this much, you are earning 833,333 JPY per month. Since this puts you in a high earning bracket, your deductions for taxes, pension, and social insurance go up considerably, but you will still net about 600,000 per month.

    If 250,000 is tight and 369,304 is average, then 600,000 after taxes and social insurance is huge. Granted, it doesn’t mean you are super wealthy – Tokyo is an easy place to blow a lot of money in a short time buy buying brand goods every month or partying every night – but you can easily live comfortably while still saving and investing a lot of money – or you can have a relatively lavage lifestyle.

    All of this has been about Tokyo – but other places in Japan are actually cheaper, of course, and usually with lower salaries as well. Japanese people aren’t in general rich or poor, as income inequality is better in Japan than many places in the world – but the costs of many things are lower, so if you made the same salary as in another major city in a developed country such as NYC, HK, or London, or San Francisco, you might feel rich.

    You can enter various city names into the sites below to perform comparisons. What you see might surprise you:

  • Furusato Nozei (Hometown Tax)

    Furusato Nozei (Hometown Tax)

    Introduction

    Furosato Nozei (Hometown Tax) is a system that allows you to donate tax money to cities and towns other than that of where you live. These donations can then be used as deductions when you file for taxes, just like any other donations.

    Essentially, then, you could donate 100,000 JPY this year and claim it when you file your taxes. You would then receive some income deduction for your national income taxes in the current year, followed by a reduction in your local municipal taxes in the following year. (Municipal taxes always lag a year behind).

    Why would you do this?

    Advantages

    • You can choose to support your actual home town, or any city or town in Japan you like.
    • This allows you to support communities who have dwindling tax income as a result of many young people moving to the major cities.
    • You can specify how the donation is used in many cases.
    • Many localities will send you a gift as a thank you present. This can include rice, sake, fruits and vegetables, and more.

    Disadvantages

    • As with any donation, there is a time lag between when you donate the money and when you get it back in the form of reduced taxes.
    • You need to file a tax return (kakutei shinkoku) or use the one stop program. If you forget completely, then of course the money will not come back.
    • The first 2,000 of your donation is not eligible as a deductible.
    • The amount you can claim on your taxes depends on your income and what other deductibles you are already claiming. For example, if you make 10M JPY per year, you can possibly claim up to 200,000 JPY, but if you only earn 5M JPY per year, the amount you can claim will be significantly less. Many of the sites have calculators that let you estimate the amount you can contribute. You should check this before making any donations.
    • This program makes taxes less efficient overall, since any amount the local governments spend on gifts and processing fees lowers the amount that actually goes towards revitalization, education, infrastructure, etc.

    Personal Experience

    I have donated around 50,000 per year to my actual hometown, and received rice in return. I have included this when I files for taxes, so my taxes are reduced by 49,800. I have not used the one stop program.

    Links & References

  • Why “Free” phones are a scam

    Why “Free” phones are a scam

    Introduction

    It’s amazing to me that people still fall for marketing ploys, but it seems that the word “Free” just activates parts of the brain that cause people to ignore common sense and forgo critical thinking.

    The Old Scam

    The old scam worked like this:

    The carriers charged a high fee, high enough that they could offer you a “Free” phone, and still earn a profit. When you signed up for a new account, you committed to 2 years, and got a “free” phone, which was also paid off within the two years.

    If you cancelled early, you could need to pay the remaining balance of your phone, plus a cancellation fee. At the end of your contract, you could cancel without penalty, but if you didn’t cancel during that month, then the contract would auto-renew for another two years.

    Near the end of your contract, the carrier would usually send you a post card notifying you that you have a “special opportunity” to get a new phone again for “free”. Many people would take the opportunity to upgrade, at which point they are locked into a high priced plan for another two years. Even if consumers chose not to upgrade, they would still pay the same rate – the carrier would just get to keep more profit. Users could change to another carrier, but they would need a new phone, and the new carrier would use similar tactics.

    As an example, say Docomo charged 8,000 JPY per month for a high end plan.

    You could sign up for an iPhone, which cost 960,000 JPY, and they would bill it as 4,000 JPY per month. However, because you were “such a good customer” they would offer you a special support package, where they would discount your bill by 4,000 per month for two years. In effect, the phone is “free” as long as you commit to an 8,000 JPY per month plan for 24 months – that’s a total of 192,000 JPY. Hardly Free!

    So you still pay “only” 8,000 per month. Officially, your service is 8,000 and the phone is 4,000, making 12,000 per month – but they give you a discount of 4,000 per month – so you only pay 8,000 per month at the end. This only matters when you try to cancel half way through, because then they can say “Well you still owe us for the phone, plus a cancellation fee”. Say you cancelled after 12 months, you would owe 48,000 + 10,000 cancellation fee – that’s 58,000. That was enough to prevent most people from cancelling and being left with a useless carrier locked phone.

    So – the answer to the question “Are free phones really free?” is “Technically, yes”. The phone is free in the sense that you don’t have to pay any money specifically for the phone – provided you commit to spending a large amount of money on service fees for the next two years. Is the phone free in the sense that you are getting something for nothing? Of course not.

    With the rise of MVNOs, legislation requiring carriers to unlock phones, and the prohibition of “free” phones, the carriers had to think of a new scam…

    The New Scam

    In order to work around the changing times, carriers had to update their scam. The new scam is even more complicated, and in practice holds people hostage for four years!

    Let’s use Softbank’s “Museigen” (Unlimited) plan as an example. We’ll ignore for the moment the fact that it isn’t actually unlimited.

    Softbank charges over 9000 JPY per month for this plan. You can get small discounts for having more than one person on the plan, having their home internet, etc., and points, etc. – but that’s all noise, so let’s just consider the base case of 9000 JPY per month.

    Let’s assume you want to use an iPhone with their service. First of all, if you buy the iPhone from them, it costs 145,440 for the cheapest 128 GB iPhone 16 (including tax). If you buy it directly from Apple, it costs only 124,800. This means you need to pay over 20,000 more for the privilege of buying the phone from Softbank – not a great start.

    This is to be paid as 410 JPY for the first 24 months, and then 5,650 for the next 24 months. So it will take you 4 years to pay off the phone, and you will pay a total of 145,440.

    Then they say “Ah, but if you change to a new phone in the 25th month, then we will waive the rest of the payments!” So, if you change to a new phone every 2 years (and hand in your old phone), you can essentially pay only 9,840 for each phone.

    Of course, they have designed it this way because:

    1. You need to keep changing your phone every 2 years to avoid paying the full cost.
    2. Their service is so expensive that you are paying the cost as part of the service fee anyway.
    3. Even after 2 years, they can say you still “officially” owe them over 135,000. This means if you cancel your service, they can ask you to pay the rest of the price of the phone.
    4. When you upgrade to a new phone, they have locked you in at high service rates for another 2 years.
    5. Even if you decline to renew your service and get a new phone, they can start charging you over 5,000 per month for a 2 year old phone, on top of your service charges.

    Once you have contracted with them using this type of setup, getting a new phone is the cheaper option when your contract comes up for renewal. (For the next two years, at least).

    So once you contract with them, you are basically stuck upgrading your phone every 2 years whether you want to or not, and paying over 9,000 JPY per month.

    Even if you sign up for their home internet, etc., and get all of the discounts available, you will only be able to lower your bill to 7,500 JPY per month, and once you decide you want to get off the train, you will be stuck paying almost 13,000 JPY per month for the next 2 years.

    They give you a phone that is very cheap for 2 years, and then suddenly costs more after that – unless, of course you want to renew.

    Now, let’s say you “need” an unlimited plan – you can still choose a plan like Rakuten Saikyo Plan (Unlimited), which will cost at most 3,168 JPY including tax. (It will cost closer to 1,000 JPY on months when you don’t use much data).

    You can then buy your phone from Apple directly and pay the cheaper 124,800 price. If you absolutely need a new phone but simply can’t afford to pay for it all at once, you can still pay 5,904 to Rakuten every month for 2 years, 2,952 JPY every month for 4 years, or 3,466 JPY every month to Paidy, JACCS, or whoever Apple is using this month.

    Four year cost comparison

    CarrierMonthly Fee (Service)Phone (years 1-2)Phone (Years 3-4)Total ServiceTotal Phone (Years 1-2)Total Phone (Years 3-4)Grand Total
    Softbank9,0004100432,0009,8400441,840
    Softbank (No new phone)9,0004105650432,0009840135,600577,440
    Rakuten3,16829522952152,06470,84870,848293,760
    Rakuten + Apple3,168124,8000152,064124,8000276,864

    The table above makes Softbank look better than it is for three reasons:

    1. We rounded down the plan cost to 9,000 JPY per month.
    2. We put 0 in the “Phone (Years 3-4)” column – but since you have to get a new phone to make this number zero, presumably you will be paying around 410 per month again on the new phone even if the old phone is 0. This will add around 9840 to the total for scenario 1.
    3. The scenario is also unfair because we are trying to look at only 4 years here, but the top scenario assumes you have committed to spending the same 9,000 per month for years 5 and 6 at the beginning of year 3.

    The difference between the last two scenarios is whether you buy the phone from Rakuten and pay it off over 4 years vs. whether you but it from Apple using a one time payment. There are other options (f.e. 2 or 3 years), but this is just to give an example.

    The result is clear. Even choosing the worst scenario for Rakuten and the best scenario for Softbank, you save just shy of 150,000 over 4 years, which works out to 37,020 per year.

    Caveats:

    • This comparison assumes you will keep the same phone for 4 years in cases 2, 3, and 4. If you really need a new phone every 2 years forever, then the rakuten + apple cost would be 76,032 service plus 124,800 for the phone = 200,832 for 2 years of service with a new phone. This compared with 225,840 for Softbank. This is only a difference of 12,504 per year which is possibly justified by other minor plan differences, such as the per minute rate for calls, definitions of “unlimited”, etc.
    • However, bear in mind that scenario 1 assumes you give up the old phone, whereas none of the others assume that. In scenarios 2-4, you can either keep the old phone or sell it, so they are even better than they appear.
    • As soon as you stretch your phone usage to 3 years, though, the difference starts to grow. The longer you can hold onto your phone, the worse Softbank gets.
    • This post isn’t meant to demonize Softbank, as au and Docomo aren’t much better in terms of the tricks they play. Likewise, Rakuten isn’t necessarily the best option for everyone, just a good point for comparison.

    Personal Experience

    I use an Sony Xperia phone, which I bought in one payment from Sony for about 100,000 about 4 years ago. It is still quite fast, works well, and is only half full. (The direct version has 512GB of storage and a Micro SD card slot).

    I use OCN, which costs around 1,200 per month, but with taxes, fees, and a few voice calls, etc. it usually comes out to around 1,500 JPY per month in practice.

    This means I have paid for the last 4 years: 36,000 in service, and 100,000 for my phone giving a total of : 136,000. I’ve saved over 300,000 JPY in the past 4 years compared with the cheaper Softbank option listed above. I can cancel at any time, and I don’t owe any money on my phone. Do I get the same service as the plans above? No, I only get 170 MB per day. Since I have WiFi at home and work, that is plenty for me. I would rather spend that 300,000 yen somewhere else.

    When will I replace my phone? Maybe in about another year or so. It used to be that specs changed to rapidly people wanted to upgrade their phone as often as possible. These days things are already pretty good, so I feel very little incentive to upgrade. Given that my phone is still fantastic and changing phones is a pain, it’s more likely I will just get the battery replaced at some point.

    Conclusion

    If you are someone who needs a data plan with a very high limit, so be it. In some cases the major carriers may even be your best option – but buying a phone through your carrier with “discounts” or “support” is almost always a trap designed to lure in the unsuspecting victim and keep them paying high fees for both service and phones for as long as possible.

    Don’t be scammed.

    If you want a new phone, buy it direct from the manufacturer. If you can stomach a used phone, buy it from a place like Janpara, Sofmap, Backmarket, etc. Some of these places even sell “unused” phones, which will allow you to get carrier specific models.

    Make a contract for the SIM card (or eSIM) only. Don’t contract with any carrier that won’t sell you service without also selling you a phone.

  • All about Kakuyasu SIM  Cards

    All about Kakuyasu SIM Cards

    Most people these days can’t live without their mobile phones. More specifically, their smart phones. For the most part, smart phones need internet service to be useful. When you are at home or work, you probably have WiFi, but when you’re out and about, you need mobile data service to be able to do much of anything. Also, even if your data needs are 100% met by WiFi, you need mobile service in order for phone calls and SMS messages to work.

    Kakuyasu basically means “Inexpensive” in Japanese. Therefore, Kakuyasu SIM cards refer to SIM cards that are less expensive than the standard SIM cards. Overseas, these are often referred to as MVNO services, which refers to the fact that they are not offered by the major incumbent mobile carriers, but minor “Virtual” carriers which lease the network from the major carriers.

    For background, there are Four major mobile service providers in Japan:

    1. NTT Docomo (Ahamo)
    2. KDDI au / Okinawa cellular (Povo, UQ Mobile)
    3. Softbank Mobile (Y! Mobile, Line Mobile)
    4. Rakuten Mobile

    The first three have been around for a long time, although Rakuten is a more recent entry.

    The names in parenthesis above are the lower cost brands from each carrier. For example, NTT Docomo is the “Premium” brand, but since the carriers realized they were losing market share to MVNOs, they launched their own less expensive brands as well.

    In most cases, these sub-brands are still more expensive than the MNVO carriers, so I will not cover them much here.

    Rakuten mobile started out as an MNVO, and then started building their own towers to become a full fledged operator.

    Some Popular Kakuyasu Brands

    1. Mineo
    2. NURO Mobile (Sony)
    3. IIJMio
    4. UQ Mobile
    5. OCN Mobile (Not accepting new contracts)

    I won’t try to create a whole list, because there are entire sites devoted to this.

    Instead, I want to make a few main points:

    1. These cheaper alternatives exist. If you didn’t know, now you do.
    2. These cheaper alternatives lease the networks from the major carriers (MNOs), or are run by them in some cases.
    3. You’ll get less data, but if you have WiFi at home then you don’t need much data. If you don’t and you watch a lot of videos, then any amount of data won’t be enough. (More on this later)
    4. You can buy your phone directly from Sony, Apple, etc., or buy a used phone. There is no need to buy an overpriced phone from your carrier.
    5. You can cut your phone bill in half or more compared with a major carrier in most cases.

    Common Objections

    1. I often have people tell me “Oh, but I don’t trust this small unknown company, I’ve been with my carrier for years”. These small (and not so small) companies are leasing infrastructure from the major carriers in most cases, so the signal strength will be what it always was. The internet may be faster or slower for other reasons. A company doesn’t need to be large to set up the virtual infrastructure. In the worst case, you can switch carriers again if you don’t like the one you have selected. Having stayed with your current carrier for years is not a good reason to continue to pay too much.
    2. The second thing people tell me is “Oh, but I need all this data I have… I watch movies all day on my phone…” First of all – why? Get a computer or something with a bigger screen. Second of all, if you are watching streaming movies or YouTube, etc. all day at home then you should get home internet and use WiFi. You will have much faster internet, and you will save money by getting Hikari fiber and switching to a cheap kakuyasu SIM. If you are constantly downloading huge amounts of data outside your house, then even 50GB may not be enough. I know people who pay Docomo over 7500 per month for “Docomo MAX”, and still and up with slow speeds and stuttering video at the end of the month. Even if you want to watch a lot of video outside of the house at places where you don’t have WiFi, you can download videos from Hulu, YouTube, and most other streaming services when you are in WiFi range, and watch them later.
    3. The third thing I sometimes hear is “But I have a contract on my phone, I’m still paying for it”, or “I can’t afford to pay for a phone all at once”. Honestly, phone financing is a scam. If you can’t afford to pay for a new phone all at once, don’t buy one. You should re-evaluate your financial situation instead. I’m not saying this to be mean, it’s just the truth. These days, even a 3 year old phone works just fine for most anything, and you can pick them up dirt cheap. You can cancel your contract, pay the remaining loan balance, and still come out ahead by switching to Kakuyasu SIM. Also, if you insist on going into debt just to buy a phone, you can buy one online from Apple, Sony, and others with financing that will let you make (for example) 12 or 24 monthly payments with 0% interest through JACCS or the like. Rentio.jp will even rent you one so you can try before you buy.
    4. The final objection is “But I have time left on my contract”. You will always have time left on your contract, that’s by design. The sooner you get out, the more money you will save. Just bite the bullet and do it. Yes, typically there is a time period every 2 years where you can cancel for free, but that may be a long time to wait, and you may forget by then. If you have to pay a 10,000 JPY cancellation fee, but then you save 3,000 – 6,000 per month, isn’t that worth it?

    Calculation

    Just as an example, let’s take a look at Sony’s NURO Mobile VM Plan.

    This plan has 5GB per month with voice and SMS service for 990 JPY. (You can up that to 10GB for 1485 JPY). You can carry over unused data to the next month, and there is no cancellation fee.

    You can bring your existing number (SMP) and phone, and select Docomo, au, or Softbank infrastructure. This means you can get exactly the coverage you had, and even bring a phone locked to one of those carriers.

    If you were paying 5,000 per month to a major carrier, and you could lower that to 1,000 or 1,500 per month, that would be a savings of which is 42,000 to 48,000 JPY per year.

    Personal Experiences

    I personally have had accounts with Softbank Mobile and then NTT Docomo. My phone bill was usually over 6,000 per month.

    • Softbank’s data dependent iPhone plan was a scam, because the price was lower than the fixed plans only if you stayed under 11 MB per month, which is nearly impossible. As soon as you exceeded the 11MB limit, the dynamic plan costed more than the fixed plan. This is old information now, but I see similar plans in place now from other carriers. They lure you in with a lower starting price, and set the limit at which the price increases low enough so that most people will exceed it without realizing. They locked their phones not just to the carrier, but the device-specific plan, and included bloatware on the Android phones they sold as well.
    • Docomo’s plans were expensive, and their Android phones also included bloatware.

    In both cases, they used “Free” phones to attract customers, while I had to pay over 6,000 JPY per month, every month, whether I had replaced my phone recently or not. “Free” phones are simply subsidized by high service costs.

    Since switching to OCN, I pay something like 1,500 JPY per month, and have done so for more than 10 years. I “only” get 170 MB per day, but that is enough for Line, Google Maps, web browsing, and most other normal activities that don’t involve streaming video or downloading app updates. That means I have saved over 400,000 JPY over the past 10 years with only very minor inconvenience. Sure, there is no “Free” phone, but in exchange, I can spend what I want, when I want.

    When I first switched to OCN, I continued using the mobile phone I already had from Docomo, but then later bought new phones directly from Sony’s web site. These phones are unlocked and don’t contain bloatware. Currently, Sony phones bought directly from their site can have double the storage of those sold by the major carriers.

    I have my phone set to never download app updates over mobile networks, and I download offline videos from places like YouTube ahead of time when I am on WiFi, so I can watch them when I am outside if I want to without using mobile data.

    I have lightening fast hikari fiber at home, which means I can use my computer stress free without tethering, and do things that require hundreds of GB of data transfer like: like backing up my computer over the internet, downloading virtual machines, OS updates, high-bitrate 4k video, and more. I can of course use this internet with my phone via WiFi, so there is simply no need for a large data plan.

    I have also used Nuro mobile, but switched to OCN for two reasons:

    1. OCN has a “Data share” option, where you could have multiple SIM cards attached to the same data plan. This allows you to have an additional SIM card for, say, a tablet or extra phone without paying much more.
    2. OCN has a daily limit option, as opposed to a monthly limit. This means that if you accidentally do something that uses a lot of data, it won’t affect you from the next day. Say, for example, you accidentally downloaded an operating system update that was 2GB to your phone. If you have a monthly limit of 3GB, then you just used more than half of that, and now you might run out of data before the end of the month. If you have a daily limit, your connection will only be throttled for the rest of day.

    OCN isn’t accepting new contracts anymore, but it’s worth checking out other options, since there are a variety of different plans available.

    Conclusion

    * The short summary is, you almost certainly don’t need more than 3 GB of mobile data monthly. *

    • You only need that much if you do a lot of video watching on your phone. Even then, you could do that via WiFi both faster and cheaper.
    • If you are truly a nomad who needs lots of data everywhere you go, then you are better off getting some sort of Pocket WiFi, such as UQ WiMax, which has much closer to unlimited data that you can share with not only your phone, but also your tablet, PC, portable game system, etc.
    • Remember that you can download video and do things like app updates when you are in WiFi range.
    • Kakuyasu SIM providers use the same networks as normal providers, so you will get the same reception and signal strength as with the major carriers.
    • There may be minor speed differences around peak times, such as lunch time. Some plans have lower speeds all the time, but still fast enough to watch streaming video, and those plans include more data.

    Links & References